At the end of our last week in Nicaragua, we were eagerly anticipating a visit from special visitors. Paulette, founder of La Mariposa, was planning to travel up to Esteli to spend time with us, and our children were SO excited to see her again! Oscar, one of the La Mariposa drivers, drove her in the truck so we got to see him too! As a surprise they brought along a pinata for the kids, and a truckload of crates and crates full of fresh fruits and vegetables from the La Mariposa gardens–greens and tomatoes and avocados and oranges and mandarinas and pineapples, overflowing our kitchen! Even a special package of fresh eggs from Paulette’s chickens, wrapped in banana leaves as a carton, which I think is the just coolest thing!
We ate lunch together at our home, spent the afternoon chatting, and visited a park and Pizza Hut that evening. But the main event was the following morning! Somoto Canyon had been recommended to us by some other students we met at La Mariposa, and we hoped to see it while we were in Northern Nicaragua, so we invited Paulette and Oscar to join us. It was fun to get to experience a new part of Nicaragua that Paulette and Oscar hadn’t seen before either!
The first part of the Somoto tour is a hike down to the riverbed, and then along the sandy, rocky riverbed, which is completely dry or very shallow pools during the dry season now, to get deeper into the canyon. Denver, Oscar, and our guide all ended up with a kid on their shoulders at one time as legs got tired and sand got in their shoes.
The next stage, when you arrive deep enough into the canton that there is enough water that you can’t walk any further, is to climb into a rowboat to be rowed further in through some beautiful rock formations as the sides of the canyon grow steeper and narrow around you.
The row boats come to a point where the way is completely blocked by large rocks that divide the riverbed into separate lakes. Everyone climbs out of the boat and does some rock climbing up and over the rock formations, which give a greater view down over the river and into the narrow parts of the canyon ahead!
Next comes the really fun stage (which Paulette and Oscar chose to opt out of and wait for us in the shade of a big rock): climbing down into tubes in the water to float into the deepest, most narrow parts of the canyon! The poor guides have to get into the water and swim, pulling the tubes along train style. At the deepest part of the canyon where you can’t go any further, there is a place where they let people climb up to jump into the water from crazy heights on the rock–none of us did, but we watch a couple of other crazy people and our guides do it (Shiny screamed and hid her eyes, I agree with her sentiment!).
Then it’s time to do the tour in reverse, getting towed back through the water to the big rocks, climbing down to the rowboat and and traveling back to the dry riverbed.
The fun part on the way back was that we had reserved horses for the hike back, knowing the kids would be tired, so we finished out the tour with Quinn and Thea on one horse, Paulette on another, and Cheyenne and I riding behind (Denver and Oscar walked).
The tour includes a traditional Nicaraguan lunch at the end, so we had the chance to sit down and share one more meal together before the long drive back and saying goodbye.
Somoto Canyon is a beautiful place, and made for a beautiful day of exploring with friends. Thanks for discovering a new treasure of Nicaragua with us, Paulette and Oscar!
We said goodbye to La Mariposa on Friday, February 1st, and headed north on a bus from Managua to Estelí, the city where we would be staying for the next 4 weeks of our trip. Denver’s cousin’s wife is from there, and it is her family we stayed with, and her brother, Marcelo, who is working with Denver on researching possibilities for the Tilmor tractor in Nicaragua. They have a nice upper level added onto their home with two bedrooms, a patio area, and a bathroom, just the right size to comfortably fit our family. And the rooftop patio provided some nice views overlooking our neighborhood and the surrounding mountains.
School Routine
Our first Saturday, we stopped by Divine Mercy Bilingual School, not far from where we stayed. We enrolled our children, purchased uniforms, and got signed up for bus pickup service. When Monday rolled around, we were ready well before 7:15 waiting for the bus to take the kids to school which started at 7:30. Around 7:40, the bus finally arrived. The rest of the week, the pickup time was closer to 8:00.
The following Monday, we were caught off guard when the bus showed up at 6:40am (we weren’t ready, so they agreed to go on with the route and then come back for our kids). They hadn’t communicated this, but apparently the school started at 7:00am after the first week. So the kids finally got settled into a regular routine of making sure to be ready by 6:30 (except for the time the main bus had broken down, and the bus again didn’t show up until well after 8:00 for a couple of days…).
School in Nicaragua starts the first week of February, so
this was one of the reasons we had timed our visit to start in February. We
were hoping our kids’ Spanish would improve by enrolling them in school. What
we didn’t realize is “bi-lingual” meant that almost all the classes were done
in English! This made for an easier transition and less stressful experience
for our kids, although it didn’t force them to use their Spanish as much. Thea
made a friend in her grade that ended up being our next-door neighbor, and it
was fun to hear the two of them interact mostly in Spanish. So while our
language goals weren’t completely met, it was a helpful experience for our kids
to meet kids in another culture, and experience what school is like for them.
A normal school day ended at 1:00, with the kids getting
home on the bus about 1:20. They would
get changed out of their school uniforms and then we would go downstairs to eat
the lunch that Karen and Karmen, our hostesses, always had ready and waiting
for us. After lunch it was time for Cheyenne’s nap, and Quinten and Thea
received their from-home school assignments for the day, usually a math sheet
to complete, a reading and vocabulary assignment and/or a journal entry to
write (with some time playing Minecraft on the tablet afterward as the big
motivator to get schoolwork finished).
Fun Arte
A weekend activity that occurred every Saturday was “Fun
Arte”, a kid’s painting class that we enrolled our kids in. Official start time
was 8am, but they were lucky to start things by 8:30am. These classes started with
a story, and the kids were free to paint something inspired from the story.
Cheyenne was too young for the class, but we snuck her in because Denver agreed
to hang with her the entire time. This created a bit of a challenge keeping a
squirmy 3-year-old entertained while trying to translate a story into English
enough for the kids to understand. When it was finally time to paint, it was a
bit more “fun”, and the kids’ creativity came out.
Denver’s Work Routine
As mentioned earlier, Denver spent this month working with
the Tilmor project here in Esteli. This often involved joining Marcelo to visit
a farm that was testing the Tilmor tractor. During this time his focus was
learning more about agricultural practices in Nicaragua, distribution options,
access to credit, and figuring out next steps based on that.
On off-days from visiting farms and businesses, he would
have “office” days back home. This gave him time to gather thoughts, write up
reports, and take care of other business (and spend more time with his wife, of
course! *Tara’s edit*)
Tara’s Routine
Originally, we thought I might be bored with nothing to do
while Denver was working and the kids were in school. Denver had asked the
school if I might be able to volunteer a few days a week. I rode along with the
kids on the bus the first day and without any specific direction on what to do,
I stuck with Cheyenne in her class for the morning and had a chance to help her
settle into the classroom routine. She had some moments when she got scared and
I needed to reassure her and coax her back to the room, and we made lots of
trips to the bathroom (which she thought was fun because of the
preschooler-sized toilets), so I felt good about being able to be there to help
her.
While I was helping in Shiny’s class the first day, I
noticed that the teacher of the youngest classroom, with mostly 3-year-olds, seemed
very stressed with over 20 toddlers running everywhere and only one teacher, so
I told her I would try to help her out the next day. I ended up coming every day that week to try
to help, but “helping” mostly meant trying to control some of the chaos by running
back and forth to the bathroom with kids who needed to go, or staying back in a
class with children running around and yelling while the teacher went to take kids
for diaper changes (4 children in the classroom still in diapers that she was expected
to have changed even though she was alone in a class of over 20 kids!). She said it was more kids in the classroom
than they’d had previous years, and some of the kids were actually 2 when they
were supposed to be 3 (and those children cried the whole morning, every morning,so
I spent much of my time trying to calm those children as well).
I came home every day so exhausted and overwhelmed that I
took a nap with Shiny and would sleep almost until dinner. After a week of that routine, I ended up
really sick with a bad cold over the weekend and into the next week, and with that
excuse not to return to school the first few days, I realized how much anxiety
the school environment had created and I was happy to just have that time at home
to relax while my kids were at school! (The teacher had told the head of school she
needed a permanent classroom aide for when I was not there anymore, so I also
hoped my not being there would help them realize the necessity of getting her
some real long-term help!)
So my routine the remaining 3 weeks, after getting the kids
ready and sent off to school, included things like eating a quiet breakfast
with Denver, washing laundry or cleaning our living area, a lot of writing to
catch up on the blog that we were very behind on, reading, practicing Spanish
on my app, and preparing the kids’ homework assignments for later. I enjoyed the
days that Denver worked from “home,” with some quiet time to talk and share a
coffee and bread together midmorning while we worked. And it made so that on Valentine’s
Day we even got away with a long walk to find a restaurant and had a kid-free lunch
date with free babysitting since the kids were in school!
Evening and Weekend Free Time
We didn’t have easy access to any transportation besides relying on Marcelo to drive us in his truck, which we didn’t want to make him do all the time. Within walking distance our main options for getting out of the house on our own were a little ice cream shop we visited quite often for a treat, and another little shop where we could buy breakfast bread and snacks. There was a field across the road from us where the kids liked to go kick around the soccer ball, and on quieter evenings at home we played a lot of Dutch Blitz and Phase 10.
A longer walk away was a children’s park we played at a few times, once taking the neighbor girl and another time when Paulette visited us, and the kids always had a good time there.
We made a couple of visits to Marcello and Anabel’s house for Sunday lunch and spent the afternoon chatting while all the kids had fun cooling off in the kiddie pool they filled up for them. For Quinten’s birthday, we had the whole Castillo family over and ordered Pizza Hut (Quinn’s request), and the weekend after Quinten’s birthday we made a special trip to the movie theater to see the Lego Movie 2 as a gift—of course, the movie was in Spanish, so that was a fun new experience for the kids! Our home also gave the kids access to (Spanish) TV, which they hadn’t had in over a month, and the very sweet 8-month-old baby girl who lives there provided some cute entertainment as well!
We are especially thankful for the warm welcome and hospitality we received from the Castillo family during our time in Esteli. On our last night they had a special goodbye dinner with the whole family, and we had fun destroying the piñata that had been given to the children by La Mariposa.
The entire family was very generous in offering help with whatever we needed, keeping us well-fed, and in opening up their homes to our (often very noisy and wild) family! Thank you for taking care of us, Castillo family!
Final. Week. In the kind of place that after 6 weeks of living feels like home, with people who after 6 weeks of doing life together feel like family. The final week at La Mariposa meant a long list of “last times” and memories to document so we can hold onto them after we are gone, at the same time hopeful that none of these “last times” really is the FINAL last time (even our children are already planning future return trips)!
Last weekend horse ride…
Last Wednesday at Laguna de Apoyo…
Last souvenirs to be purchased…
Last loads of laundry to be washed…
Last trip to our favorite park…
Last snacks at Josimar’s Restaurant…
Last time to hold hands with a monkey…
Last visits with favorite furry friends…
Cheyenne’s favorite was definitely the kitten; Quinn wanted a picture to remember his favorite dog, good old Junior.
Last time to greet new students…
Last days of Spanish class and saying goodbye to teachers…
Granada is another important and beautiful colonial city in
Nicaragua. The Saturday trip to Granada also marked exactly 1 month since our
family’s arrival in Nicaragua, and it made for a wonderful way to experience
many things that make Nicaragua such a beautiful country all on the day of that
anniversary!
I also made our children write journals entries about the
city for school, so I will let their writings help tell some of Granada’s
story.
QUINTEN: “Granada is a cool place, but very important too!
Other than being one of the oldest cities in the Americas, it has faced many
dangers (pirate attacks, volcanic eruptions, etc.).”
THEA: “First we went to a cemetery. A cow was “mooing” the grass (😊 😊 he he). We looked into graves and we had fun. People get buried in tombs. One person would get buried with their family under the same tomb.”
**Okay so, we did not look “into graves”, lol, but we toured
around to see the many very elaborate family tombs and statues adorning
them. Being from rural Ohio where cemeteries
are mostly simple granite headstones, the idea of huge above-ground family
tombs was a new concept. Also, there really
was a cow inside the cemetery grazing when we first arrived, very common here
for people to graze their livestock on any public space that has grass on it,
but the kids found a cow wandering among the tombs especially amusing and out
of place.**
After the cemetery we walked around town some and stopped to see another beautiful old cathedral. I had the opportunity to climb to the bell tower for the view, but because of the steep stair climb (My legs were tingling for a while afterward and still sore the next day), children had to stay grounded and were happy to get a snack with daddy instead.
QUINTEN: “Chocolate is good, right? But think about the
story behind it.”
THEA: “We went to a chocolate factory and learned how to
make chocolate. We did a dance and sang “Ba-te, ba-te, Cho-co-la-te” (Stir stir
Chocolate). We got free samples of brownies,
chocolate, mocha, Nicatella (like Nutella), and a chocolate massage made of
cocoa butter. It was fun.”
**The Choco Museo Nicaragua was a lighter stop after the
cemetery. The guide who took us on the tour spoke great English, and was a born
performer. They have a creative and fun presentation
to walk guests through the process of how chocolate is made, starting with the
cacoa tree, the history of its use going back to the Mayans, the process of separating
the beans from the pods and grinding them (with a fun chant and dance routine that
invited audience participation!), the different products made from different
stages of the process and the differences between the different types of
chocolate (the guide was impressed by the tastes of our children who affirmed
that DARK chocolate is the best kind of chocolate, we’ve raised them well). And yes, at the end of the tour we all got to
sample many different chocolate-based products they make there before we were
invited to make some gift shop purchases.
It was a fun and informative experience, and didn’t take up a lot of
time.
THEA: “Then we went to Lake Nicaragua in Granada. They have islands (islas). The islands are
made by Volcan Mombacho. A long time ago the volcano erupted, shooting huge
rocks into the lake and making islands.
There are houses, cafes, or even restaurants on them. We rode on a boat to an island to swim.”
QUINTEN: “It also has 365 islands made out of volcanic rock
coughed out of Volcan Mombacho, thousands of years ago. We went on a boat ride to
the islands.”
**That description that the islands were “coughed out” by the volcano, LOL! The boat tour around the lake to see the isletas (little islands) in the afternoon was definitely the highlight of the day! The volcano backdrops surrounding the lake are beautiful, and gawking at all the little islands with the unique homes that have been built on each one led to fun exercises in dreaming up “if you owned your own island, what would you do with it?”
Our boat tour guide was super knowledgeable about all of the islands: which ones are owned by former and current presidents, which one is owned by the biggest beer mogul in Nicaragua, the ones owned by the family of Nicaragua’s first billionaire businessman Carlos Pellas, this one that was bought by Canadians and that one that is owned by a family from Brazil….And of course Denver would never let me forget “Monkey Island”, a tiny area of rock and trees inhabited only by 3 Spider monkeys!
Our guide was also able to point out the many private islands that are currently for sale, and tell their selling price, which made me wonder if he doubles as a real estate agent and would make a commission if he convinced some tourists to make an impulse buy (which is tantalizing idea, they really are beautiful little secluded islands in a quiet lake!). At the farthest part of the tour we stopped at an island restaurant that had a small swimming pool, bought drinks and played for a while. Denver and the kids even took a few jumps off a diving board into the lake! (Cheyenne and I were content to sit on the edge of the pool and just get our feet wet).
Sidenote, it was also our last day with two awesome La
Mariposa friends, Cynthia and Pascal from Quebec, Canada (awesome French
accents!), as they were staying in Granada at a hostel before heading off on
some Nicaraguan adventures on their own.
Cynthia was great at making my children go wild with silly threats that
she wanted to eat their toes (which I found out later led them to google the question,
“How many kids have toes in Canada?” LOL!).
We miss you toe-eating Canadians!
So in all, it was a very good day, and if you are ever touring around this beautiful country, a tour of Granada should be on your must-see list!
We’ve fallen so far behind in documenting our travels, and
we’ve done soooo much in that time, that it’s overwhelming to sit here after
what has actually been 7 weeks and try to figure out where to start with all the
weeks I haven’t covered yet! Thankfully
photo documentation was plentiful and serves as the outline for my memories to
keep our timeline straight.
Weekend 3: Leon
Leon is the second-largest city in Nicaragua (after the capital,
Managua), and was the originally capital city starting in colonial times when
founded by the Spanish; therefore it has a lot of historical and political
importance, and is a usual stop in getting to know the country.
What to love about Leon: beautiful old architecture, especially
the cathedral. There are tour guides to tell
all about the history of the cathedral (which Denver heard, and I mostly spent
chasing Cheyenne and trying to keep her from lying in the middle of the floor or
climbing through the barriers to the temptingly fun-looking nativity scene up
front), and then you can pay to climb up to the rooftop and walk around to see
the view of the city and the details of the architecture up close. My favorite is trying to capture different
angles of certain interesting parts of a building framed by sky and clouds, so
I enjoyed the rooftop photography the most!
And while in a culturally-famous city I’m sure there are many great
restaurants to get some wonderful authentic Nicaraguan meals, we were with our
children…so where did we eat lunch? Pizza Hut. Which is what they would say was
their favorite part of the tour of Leon.
What not to love about Leon: The city is STINKING HOT! We get spoiled by the beautifully temperate climate in Masaya and especially La Mariposa with all the trees for fresh air and shade, so the temperature difference in the region of Leon is a shocker (more than 10 degrees hotter, plus lots of city concrete and few trees), so come prepared with the sunscreen, sunglasses, and lots of water! We ended up spending a couple hours of the afternoon at a nearby beach area in Leon rather than touring more of the city, which was more fun for our children, but still crazy hot and sand burning their feet, bigger waves and shorter stretch of beach to the water, so we personally recommend the beach at La Boquita (which is our trip the 4th weekend, next post).
Also weekend 3: Old Friends
What to love about Nicaraguan people: It only takes a couple of days together to feel like family and be welcomed back months after first meeting as if you had always been friends. When Denver and I first traveled to Nicaragua in February 2018 to scout out plans for this trip, we spent one weekend in a Homestay with a family in La Concha during our time visiting La Mariposa. They quickly made us feel at home in their home and we became fast friends with their teenage son with Down Syndrome, who loved coloring and telling us all about his collection of model animals. When preparing to return this December, I made sure to pick up a coloring book and a new set of plastic animals of North America to bring Daryl for Christmas. His father Julio had invited our family to come tour a citrus farm (lots of Mandarin and orange trees in harvest, as well as rows and rows of pineapple and dragon fruit) owned by his friend on Sunday, so that morning we got to bring Daryl his presents. His joy opening these two simple gifts and lovingly carrying them around was priceless, and made an impact on our children as well.
Week 3-4: Life in La Mariposa
Things to Love: Pizza making day. One this special day of the month when we get homemade pizza for dinner, the children were super excited to participate in the pizza-making class. The La Mariposa cooks helped them chop toppings, mix the dough, knead and roll it, and each assemble toppings (Homemade sauce, lots of veggies, lots of cheese) on pizzas that would be dinner for everyone that evening!
FURRY things to love: So. Many. Contented dogs lounging everywhere. The newly-rescued grey kitten, just starting to get braver and more adventurous, became a special family favorite during the last half of our stay, often inviting herself into our room to play or sprawl on our bed for a while before we went to sleep. And Chica the sweet old Spider monkey who just wants someone to come hold her hand, and walking down to their cage just to sit and hold her hand and stroke her arm for a while was calming for me too. (While Paulette would love all wild animals like these monkeys to live free, the ones who live here had been kept in captivity for too long before they were turned over to La Mariposa, so they can no longer be safely released to fend for themselves, so they give them the best care they can here).
More to love about fellow students: This week brought Jacob, a young man who has
been coming with his parents to La Mariposa since he was a much smaller boy, over
multiple years, and now as a 14-year-old came alone for a couple weeks to work
as an intern and learn about how the business is run. He is well known by all the staff, has a
homestay family he has lived with multiple times, speaks great Spanish, and
independently jumps right in to life at the school (he is also tenacious enough
to figure out how to bring the puppy, Pecas, home to Florida with him at the
end of his stay, which also gave our children all kinds of ideas…) Seeing how Jacob come on his own as a teenager
was especially inspiring for our children, and started them already thinking
about how they want to return to help at La Mariposa when they are older;
Quinten already has a plan to bring a group of friends on a school trip when he
is in high school!
And I can’t forget: My handcrafted ceramic flowerpot chicken. What’s not to love? (You know you want one too).